Source: Rohtang and beyond!
Vacations had come and the planning was in the air. Hills…only hills because it was summer time and the plains were burning hot. After lot of deliberations, it was decided we would be going to Leh, a dream destination of every Indian traveler. Itinerary was penned, route decided but 1000kms of journey on bikes in the boring plains that too in the scorching 40+ degrees was a big no. So we all had decided to do it in a car.
We were four and on the scheduled day we had left Lucknow in the wee hours of the day. The drive was fun but only for the one who was on the wheels. The remaining co passengers had lost their zeal after initial few minutes of enthusiastic chatting. Devoid of even a refreshment stop in the newly constructed and much acclaimed Lucknow Agra highway we were speeding off to Delhi. The smooth ride had an abrupt halt after 2 hours and 200 Kms when Atul [on wheels and only one awake then] announced that he had forgotten the papers of the vehicle.
We had to return. The entire day was wasted. Next day same time we had to go through the same route with even less vigour. In five hours we had covered 520 Kms and were at New Delhi, primarily because nobody had any interest in the repeat sightings enroute. We had an overnight stay at friend’s place. Meeting with long time friends meant that we had to be awake till the early hours of the next day. We had our slumber broken only the next afternoon. After freshening up we were off to our next destination.
Delhi and the nearby traffic is always a mess. The next few hours of drive was a heavy drag with frequent stuck ups. We had our evening snacks of stuffed parathas at Pehelwan Dhaba at Muruthal. The next few hours had seemed as if we were paying zig zag as we made through the evening traffic on the Delhi Chandigarh highway. After cool 8 hours of drive covering 350 Kms we were at Anandpur Sahib.
The place had its own pious essence. Also known as the holy city of bliss it is one of the most sacred places for the Sikhs. Founded by their ninth Guru, Guru Teg Bahadur it was earlier known as Chakk Nanaki. The warmth with which we were welcomed at the place is beyond words. We stayed in one of the rooms at Gurudwara. It was only the next day that we experienced the serenity of the place and its surroundings.
After offering our prayers and seeking His blessings, we continued with our journey. As we progressed we could experience the beauty and brightness of the atmosphere increase. The drive was picturesque but cautious. After a brief halt for lunch at a roadside dhaba at Mandi we carried on.
As we had passed Kullu, two things never left us, the roaring river Beas along the road and a long queue of sluggishly moving cars. One thing is for sure, we are gradually eroding the nature’s tranquility by storming at some place in large numbers and when we do so, along come our cars with burning fuels, our high decibels, our electronic gadgets and our nuances. I could sense and foresee once beautiful places like Manali and beyond, decaying under the burden of visiting tourists in a very near future. The sad part is that how much I may proclaim to be a nature lover I am a part of the crowd responsible.
Getting a room for 4 of us was a new dilemma. Fortunately our net services were working and we booked a hotel online through oyo at Rs. 2500 per night [lucky bargain]. The traffic in Manali was even more chaotic. Coming here after 12 years I was anxious to get out of what once was my dream destination but that was not easy either. We learnt that to go beyond Manali a permit is needed and we applied for it online immediately. Only 800 petrol vehicles are allowed in a day.
To add to our woos the road beyond were to open a day later. We explored the place next day visiting Hidimba temple, Vashisht temple and Manu tempe [was bit far]. Next morning we all were men in a hurry. Already in the car at 6:00 am we were off to Rohtang Pass. The drive was bit scary but the cops on the way were doing a good job. Just before noon we had arrived at Rohtang.
Had a short stay at the Pass which literally divides the Kullu valley that follows hindu culture and the arid Lahaul Spiti valley that follows Buddhism. Beyond, the greens had vanished and only three colours were visible, dark blue sky, grey road and white snow covered hill slopes. As the gradient increased the driving became wearisome. The bends were a plenty and the roads were narrow. Intermittent weather and water falls had taken toll of the roads and very often loose stones would disrupt the drive. None of us had ever driven at such high altitude and this fact was catching our nerves too but the excitement kept egging us to continue.
We continued towards Keylong but to our horror we were stopped by the security personals who explained that the road ahead was in pretty shape and the continuous rains aren’t helping either. With heavy heart [can’t express in words how heavy?] we had to turn around. While riding back, we promised ourselves that next time we will come on bikes. We were back in the evening and next day we started back our long drive back home.
It was a curtailed trip but nevertheless we enjoyed the company of each other. We could not complete the last 200 Kms of our planned trip but we did complete the remaining 1400 Kms and we enjoyed every Kms of it. Next year I will be back with the complete venture but then who can foresee the coming tomorrow.
Travel if you can because life is short and the world is too large a place to explore in a life time. So, do not confine yourself to your nest, soar high and see your surroundings. That provides you with the awareness that no book, blogs or any other write ups can provide.
Common Reasons: Traveling ensures that you get away from your regular 24 hour day long schedule. You break that synchronous daily cycle and give time to yourself. You explore new and different civilizations, landscapes, terrains, habitats, life styles, socio economic structures and living creatures.
Other Reasons: Ever wondered that the sun even rises at the place you dwell. Then why need to see the sunrise on hills, on sea beaches, in deserts etc. What is so fascinating when the process is same just the background keeps changing? Reason lies in the deep desire of breaking the monotony…
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Characters: Me, Umesh Kaul or only Kaul, Lalit Kumar or Lalit, Atul Kumar Singh alias Atul and Laxmikant Shukla aka LK. We all are teachers at a private school in Lucknow and surely we need some zing in life. We decided to have a long bike ride just to quench our desires of some thrill and also to negate the belief that only peoples of Delhi, Chandigarh, Pune and Bangaluru are insane enough to go in for such endeavours.
We put our faith in them [the bikes] & in Lord Almighty Preparations: We got our bikes serviced, got all the required documents of the bikes, kept some cash, packed our bags with all the required things including medical necessities, toiletries and warm clothes. While packing we kept the things compact and light. We used slings to tie our bags on to the bikes ensuring that they won’t budge…
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In the Lap of Shiva
Characters: Me, Umesh Kaul or only Kaul, Lalit Kumar or Lalit, Atul Kumar Singh alias Atul and Laxmikant Shukla aka LK. We all have been riding on our bikes all the way from Lucknow [for details check: Biking to Badrinath]. While traveling on NH58 we reached Chamoli in the afternoon and decided to have a small detour to Tungnath temple.
Tungnath Temple [The highest Kedar] Leg 1: [Chamoli to Gopeshwar, 8 Kms. 40 minutes]: At Chamoli we crossed over the bridge over Alaknanda and left the river trail. The road ascends and reaches a small market where there is a junction of a road to Gopeshwar town and Chopta, or rather Okhimath road. At this market we took out some money from ATM as we knew that there is no ATM or petrol pump beyond this point till Okhimath.
Forests on the…
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Characters: I [Umesh] and Atul.
Though I accompanied Atul, but I have tried to put this narration, with him as the first person as this was his first trip to Himalayas and his first ever long distance trip on bike. Our journey commenced in the hot and sweating month of June from Delhi. With the sun shining bright and temperatures unrelenting, we decided to start off in the evening at around 5 pm.
It took us nearly an hour to move out of the snarling traffic of the city and another hour to reach Muruthal which was only 45 Kms from our place. Murthal [derived from Muni sthal or the land of saints] is a small town on NH-1 famous for its parathas [an Indian bread form]. After eating to our hearts full at Phalwan Dhaba we moved on. Surprisingly the traffic was heavy all along till Karnal. With his excitement on a high he kept riding till the early hours of the next day. At around 2 pm having ridden 220 Kms on NH-1, we reached Ambala. Although he was in no mood to give a break but I insisted and we were quickly in deep slumber in a small room of a road side motel.
Enthusiastic as he was, he woke up early and was on the roof top taking pictures of the rising sun. I could sense his inner glee and egged him for his animated actions [come on, who takes pictures of sunrise at Ambala highway?] but I do not deny that his exuberance was inducing. It was my third bike ride and I could foresee the pleasure and the bliss that he was going to attain in the next few days.
At 7 am we continued with our journey. Within an hour we were leaving NH-1 to move on to NH-5 [earlier NH-22] via Chandigarh Bypass and few minutes more we got had the first sightings of the hills from far. Atul on pillion seat had no control over his emotions as he would squeal and open up his arms in joy so as to gobble up the morning air. At 10 am we were crossing Solan and by 12 noon we had bypassed Shimla which was 150 Kms from Ambala.
The highway was in excellent condition and the ride to Shimla had been smooth. Beyond Shimla, the roads do get narrow but they were in pretty decent shape. As we crossed Shimla we ran into lush green Shimla Reserve Forest Sanctuary that provides a serene surrounding for the serpentine road. Few kilometers more via Kufri and somewhere around Bithal village we came across River Sutlej [From this trisection a road leads to Tatta Pani].
Now the road ran alongside the river Sutlej. Its gushing flow was reverberating in the air as if reminding us mortals of the nature’s might. The feeling was eternal though with some painful body parts. As the sun was winding up its daily ride, our in between refreshing stops were on the rise. The weather wasn’t cool but pleasant. As the clock showed 6 pm we reached Rampur [140 Kms from Shimla] after covering nearly 290 Kms in the day.
Rampur is a small and ancient town right on the banks of river Sutlej. Situated at a height of nearly 1250 mts [from sea level] it served as an important junction of various major trade routes of India, Central Asia and Tibet. Lavi fair, that is held every November is the largest trading event in the Himalayas with traders coming from Ladakh, Kashmir, Tibet, Yarkand and other Indian cities. We got a decent hotel in Rampur for only Rs. 500. [around $ 7.5] and we also paid a visit to a Buddha temple which was adjacent to our hotel.
The night was cool, relaxing and well spent sleeping. Next day we rose late and could leave the hotel only by 10 pm. Within few minutes the change in the landscape was quite apparent. The traffic was sparse and sections of roads were picturesque but scary [literally], especially the stretch from Jeori to Tranda which also features amongst the most dangerous roads of the world. Fortunately for us, we did not find any traffic that day, except a bit at Wangtoo, but the overhanging rocks and boulders would give us fright now and then.
After crossing Sutlej through Shongtong bridge and Akpa bridge and covering nearly 120 Kms we reached Reckon Peo at around 3 pm. On the way we also passed through the narrow market of Kalpa [the earlier District Headquarters of Kinnaur, now Reckong Peo]. As we neared Reckong Peo we got the first glimpse of the majestic snow clad peaks of Kinnar Kailash mountain range. Legend says that Lord Shiva meditated here during his escape from Bhasmasur and asked Lord Vishnu for his help.
To our surprise we quickly learnt that hotels in Reckong Peo were too expensive for our moderate pockets. Wisdom prevailed and bikes came handy as we travelled back to Kalpa and took a room in a budget hotel, Hotel Mount View for Rs. 1200 [$20]. Ideally located the owner couple was extremely polite and helpful.
We slept like a dead log in the cozy warmth of our quilts as it rained outside. Morning was bright with the high peaks adding to the gloss of the atmosphere. We packed our bags and rushed back to Peo [as known to locals]. The sights were splendid and the exhilaration that we felt cannot be put into words.
Reckong Peo or Rekong Peo is situated at a height of 2300 mts. It derives its name from the group of locals and the family which used to own this place in ancient times. We spent the whole day doing nothing there just gazing at the splendor of the place, enjoying the hot soup and momos. It is that nothingness that is most memorable for us even now.
Next day we set off for our last destination, Sangla. We drove all the way back to Karcham from where we left Sutlej and rode along the river Baspa. The road to Sangla was in a pathetic state and we had to maneuver the bike through the loose stones and pot holes on the way. The valley was cool and more tourist friendly in terms of accommodation and other resources. It had ATMs and a petrol pump too. The place is also known for growing best quality apples in the country. We enjoyed the food and the weather for a day before embarking upon our return journey.
I don’t need to convey the pains of the 600 never ending kilometers of the return leg but as the saying goes, no pain no gain. We took a night halt at Chail and were back in Delhi at 3 pm next day.
Travelers are Escapists?
Matter of debate but at least in literal sense they are.. or rather I am! We call our short trips get aways. Get away from what? Isn’t that escapism, an act of escape from routine boring and dreary daily routine, both physically and mentally. Do not take it as an accusation, it is just another view one needs to ponder upon.
Whenever we go to any destination, our first priority is to look different. Camera hanging from the neck, hat on the head, goggles and casual attire, we do everything to ensure that it is apparent to everyone around that we don’t belong there. We take pictures of locals, purchase local artifacts and enjoy local cuisine just to cement our own perception that we are tourists there.
The word ‘tourist’ owes it’s etymology to the latin word ‘tornare’ which means ‘turning on the lathe’. When you visualize a lathe machine in context to ‘tourist’, the initial thought is that of going round to a place and coming back. Think deeper and you will realize that in this process you have been molded differently. It is true that when you return from the tour you regain your original shape as per the human behavior but as long as you were on the lathe you were in a virtual cast.
Whenever we plan a tour, we explore the beauty of the place. We enquire about its accessibility, the natural and man made sights of the place, the excursions from the place, accommodation, weather conditions but are we ever inquisitive about the socio economic issues of the place, the hardships that locals face or even how the locals have been able to preserve the splendor of the place. I can read the answer sailing in your mind …. NO!
Why No? because then our preference will be in staying and worrying here rather than traveling and worrying there. It is just like asking peoples to smile before the click of the camera because no matter what, we want our memories to be pleasant and they are supposed to have smiling faces without realizing that smiling exteriors often have painful cores.
In vacations we always rush off for hills, mountains, sea beaches, deserts or forest reserves. Except for some exotic locations, we all enjoy and appreciate the humility of the locals. Humility in the sense that they are helpful, caring and do not charge too much for goods and services. What we don’t apprehend is that all these landscapes are harsh for human life.
What happens to them when the tourist season is over? We [the vacationers] do not care because we are on a lathe machine, remember and we have to return and some one else will be on it. This will go on and on and the lathe will keep moving round and round creating lively eventful moments for the riders but do we ever give a thought about the equipment [lathe] that is stuck to its axis and working nonstop.
Bhutan is the best example for the issue I am talking about. It is the most eco friendly country of the world with more than 70% of its land under forest cover. To the world it has the highest Gross National Happiness ratings but the fact is that 70% of the population still lives there without electricity and is one of the economically poorest nations of the world. How many of us have visited Bhutan and how many are aware of the fact mentioned latter. You can draw parallels to the place you have visited recently.
So, what to do? Give up traveling and exploring! No way! The only request is, include these kind of thoughts in your planning for a trip. Give some time to the gloominess of the place you visit and do share them. It’s not to much to ask for and as for the rest, you all are wise enough!