BINSAR: The forest trail

Preface: The trip was planned only a day before the departure. With the cancellation of a long car drive my friends, Atul and LK [aka Laxmikant] were clueless about what to do in their short winter vacations. Sitting together, I and Atul finalized a car trip to Binsar. We rang up LK and got his affirmation in no time. We had two more fellow travelers, my wife, Mukti and my 10 year old son, Aru. More than the destination we were excited about the long car drive of about 1000 Kms from Lucknow to Binsar and back given the fact that none of us had driven in the Himalayas and there was a height of 2600 meters to be attained.


Preparations: I got my car washed and serviced and made sure that the packing was compact as the boot space of the car was not that huge so as to accommodate the luggage of warm clothing of five individuals.

Leg 1: Once again we started at night. Our route was through Sitapur [80 Kms] and then to Lakhimpur Kheri [another 40 Kms]. By the time we reached Gola Gokaran Nath it was midnight and the streets were deserted with occasional sighting of heavy trucks or tractors. Suddenly there was a thick fog as we were crossing the forest areas. I was reluctant to carry on and suggested that we should wait knowing very well that the fog won’t clear in a short time but my friends had other ideas. So we kept driving relying heavily on the car lights and horns.

Luckily the fog lasted for about half an hour or so. We reached Pilibhit and continued towards Tanakpur. At dawn we were at Tanakpur and I thanked God and LK, who was on the driver’s seat then, for driving us safely through the dense foggy stretch.


Sunrise at Tanakpur

My son, as expected, started to have nausea feeling and there was a strong need felt among all the group members for a halt. After going through another 76 Kms of twists and turns we decided to give ourselves and our car a lengthy and much needed rest at Champawat. We chose a newly constructed Shivam Hotel on the main road to stay.


Roadside snacks just before Champawat

Champawat: A small but an important town of Uttarakhand that lies on NH-125 that connects Khatima to Pithoragarh, is nestled amidst thick forest and at a height of 1650 mts gives a panoramic view of the lower Himalayas. It also has some historical relevance as it was the capitol of Chand rulers. 10 minutes walk took us to Baleshwar temple that is dedicated to Lord Shiva.


Compound lawn of our hotel at Champawat

The thing that appealed to me the most was the soulful calmness of the place. Sitting in the hotel lawn and watching the monkeys play I could clearly hear the rhythmic rattle of motor engines of the occasional car or scooty that would pass by the road that was about a kilometer far. The food at Champawat is cheap but delicious.


Calm and quiet Champawat

Leg 2: After a good night rest we started off for Binsar via Almora along NH-309A. Atul had been on the wheels since the hilly terrain began. The reason behind was that he was the only one who had driven, although only a little, on the hills before. Encouraged by the fact that the road was devoid of any traffic whatsoever I expressed my desire to drive my car for the very first time on the mountains.


Joyful ride through the forests enroute Almora

Once in the driver’s seat my admiration and the joy increased manifolds. With my son on the front seat and his nausea all long forgotten and the thick cover of oak and deodar trees along the route we all were exclaiming praiseworthy adjectives for the serenity of the nature. The only thing missing were the food joints or the road side dhabas.


The Almora Champawat was dotted with numerous temples.

It was 4 pm by the time we reached Almora. We were hungry by now and were frantically looking for a good restaurant but we realized that we have crossed the whole of Almora main market searching for a parking space which we could not find. We found a small Chinese restaurant at the fag end of the market and as the saying goes beggars can’t be choosers, we decided to satisfy our hungry stomachs there only.


The first glimpse of Almora city

Almora City: Perched at around 1800 mts in between a small crust of two hillocks it gets its name from a small plant named Kilmora. It is also known as the cultural heart of Kumaon.


We ate to the satisfaction of our appetites. The Maggie and the Chowmein were a delight to our eyes as well as to our taste buds. The Coffee though was much more of a chocolate milk but all this at Rs. 410 [around $7] add to it the smiles and love of the person serving it was an astonishing experience.


Binsar Forest Reserve entry gets closed at 5 p.m.

Luckily, we could see the road to Binsar climbing right in front of the restaurant and with only 22 kms it was presumed to be an hours drive only but we were at the gate of the Binsar forest reserve in about half an hour with 10 kms yet to be covered. We were told by the old man at the gate that the entry is not allowed after 5 pm.


Evening fires at Hotel Dolma, Kasar Devi

I had assumed Binsar to be a small town but at that moment I felt we were stuck in the middle of nowhere. The old man came to our rescue and advised us to go to Deenapani which is about 7 or 8 kms and stay in any one of the many hotels and rest houses there. Without wasting any time we turned back and soon came across hotel Dolma at Kasar Devi.


Beautiful sunrise from our Hotel Room. Also notice the moon still in the sky.

Surprisingly the hotel was along the main road and rooms were reasonably priced. Not luxurious but they were clean and tidy. The food was good too but the best part was that the rooms opened towards east and that gave some beautiful view of sunrise, a delight for camera lovers.


The dense forests of Binsar

Next day, after offering our morning prayers at Kasar Devi temple, which was adjacent to our hotel, we set off for Binsar. The tickets costed us Rs. 150 each. The next 10 kms drive is a steep incline through dense forest. Some patches of the drive were literary scary but luckily Atul was on the wheels. I must admit I might have chickened out because at one place our tyres did slip because of the incline. We took an hour to reach the Tourist Rest House of KMVN from where 3 Kms trek route originates.


The forest trail is scenic and thick cover of trees adds to the splendid view. Word of caution, go to Binsar if you wish to love serenity and nature. Do not expect even a chance sighting of any wildlife, big or small. Not even Birds though the locals will never tire of telling you that they have seen a leopard on the prowl a day before.


Distant Snow Capped Mountains as viewed from Zero Point

Only the silence and solace stands out at Binsar. The zero point, which is the end of the trail, does give you a good but distant view of snowcapped mountains. This year being the hottest ever, we felt robbed because forget the snow even the chill was missing in the air as we stood atop Zero Point at the height of 2600 mts.


The descend

The descend was relatively comfortable. We decided to enjoy one more evening at Hotel Dolma because of its food and the fire that they lit in the courtyard. Another fact, they do not sell alcohol nor is there any shop nearby and never ever purchase it in black coz it won’t be good enough. We found this out the hard way. The evening we spent showing the zoo to Aru which was 3 Kms downhill.


Just trying to hold the sun!!!

Next morning we were heading home this time taking the Almora, Bhowali, Bareilly, Sitapur route to Lucknow. We purchased the Bal Mithai from Almora as the sweet is not available anywhere else. After 13 hours drive we were back home safe and with pleasant memories.



  1. That was quite an interesting experience and account, my Dear Umesh! As I was reading all that, I was wishing that I could have come too!

    It is very good that You have given a map of Your route. And all the places, with their points of interest, …this is a good travel account!

    Hearty Regards to All! 🙂


  2. Very interesting experience and narration… thank u for sharing 🙂 I’ve been meaning to visit Binsar for a long time… hopefully some day… Cheers!


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